Good time !

Highlining with friends is a good way to have fun

 

Posted in News, Videos | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Grand prize : high heels on slack

We launch today our first photo contest : the most bold girl on slack with high heels !

The winner won’t be the photographer but the girl doing the job ! So send us your pics with the name of your performer !

To get inspired, here is the famous picture of Faith Dickey and the bold picture of Emie Briviba performing on high heels. Who will be the first Miss high heels on slack ?

The winner will get the cover picture of the website chocoslack ! Send us your photos before end of march ! Have fun.

emie

faith

Posted in News | Tagged | Leave a comment

Freeze solo

The freeze solo video from slacktivity is finaly out. You can watch Samuel battling out on a 130m waterline over a freezing cold lac. Sure you don’t want a fall: scary to walk !

Posted in News, Videos | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Faith Dickey slack reel 2014

Faith is the best female in the slack game. Here is a video with some of the lines she walked in 20114 where she shows that she can do highline, longline, high heels line ….not sure any male can repeat that.

Posted in News, Videos | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Efficiency of pulley

Sorry guys, but you will have exceptionally to google translate this article since it was written by french engineers…

Le rendement des poulies. C’est le dossier du jour avec l’expert Romain Schempf de Slack Mountain qui nous a pondu un dossier pointu sur les poulies et leur rendement avec l’aide de Petzl et Wichard. Cela vous permet tout d’abord d’affiner vos connaissances techniques et physiques, et ensuite de mieux choisir votre matériel !

La taille du Réa :

20150218_133848

Plus la taille du réa de la poulie est importante, plus la distance parcourue par la corde sur celle ci est importante, et donc moins le déplacement au niveau de l’axe poulie est important par rapport à la distance de corde parcourue.

Un réa de 60 mm aura une circonférence de 3,14 x 60 = 188,4 mm.

Un réa de 32 mm aura une circonférence de 3,14x 32 = 100,48 mm.

Donc en un tour de poulie avec un réa de 32 mm on aura parcouru que 53% (100,48/188,4) de distance parcourue en un tour de poulie avec un réa de 60 mm

Attention : cela veut dire pour schématiser qu’il faut faire tourner la poulie un peu plus pour arriver au même niveau avec la même force appliquée.

La taille de l’axe a aussi son importance.

Un axe de 12 mm aura une circonférence de 3.14 x 12 = 37.68 mm

un axe de 15 mm aura une circonférence de 3.14 x 15 = 47.1 mm

Une poulie de 32 mm avec un axe de 15 mm aura un ratio de 100.48/47.1 = 2.13

Alors qu’une poulie de 32 mm avec un axe de 12 mm aura un ratio de 100.48/37.68 = 2.67

La poulie de 32 mm avec un axe 12 mm déplacera la corde 2.67 mm  pour 1 mm sur l’axe, alors que la poulie de 32 mm avec un axe de 15 mm déplacera la corde de 2.13 mm pour 1 mm sur l’axe.

Ce n’est donc pas seulement la taille du réa qui compte mais le rapport de la taille du réa sur la taille de l’axe central de la poulie

Et si l’on compare avec une poulie de 60 mm avec un axe de 12 mm on obtient: 188,4/37,68 = 4,98 soit plus du double qu’avec un réa de 32 mm et un axe de 15 mm

La rotation de l’axe central générant des frottements il faut donc minimiser cette dernière pour avoir un meilleur rendement. D’où l’intérêt d’avoir un meilleur ratio:

La poulie de 60 mm avec un axe 12 mm déplacera la corde 4,98 mm  pour 1 mm sur l’axe, alors que la poulie de 32 mm avec un axe de 15 mm déplacera la corde de 2.13 mm pour 1 mm sur l’axe.

Le cordage :

14-corde-escalade 2

Sur une poulie, le meilleur ratio est d’avoir un cordage avec un diamètre situé entre  1/6e  et 1/8e de la taille du réa, (au delà, la corde n’a plus assez de friction pour faire tourner le réa de la poulie et glisse directement dessus, cela ne sert plus à rien d’avoir un réa qui tourne). Les cordes sont solides et flexibles et donc déformables sous la pression. Plus le cordage sera fin, plus la friction et l’écrasement de la corde sera réduit et donc le rendement augmentera (dans la limite des 1/8 de la taille du réa, sinon le rendement se réduit).

Si le cordage est supérieur au 1/6 le rendement sera réduit.

Sur un réa de 60 il faudrait donc un cordage de 10 mm à 8 mm (60/8 =7,5 n’existant pas en cordage courant).

Sur un réa de 32 mm il faudrait un cordage de 5 mm à 4 mm ( 32/6 = 5,3 n’existe pas).

Petit point supplémentaire: les cordages et les réa auront un meilleur rendement plus la gorge de la poulie sera adaptée au diamètre du cordage, entre une poulie à gorges de 60 mm avec une corde de 10mm et une poulie de 60 sans gorges (plat) le rendement diminuera d’environ 5 % (dû à l’écrasement de la corde qui augmente donc la friction.)

Les roulements à billes :

roulement-rigide-bille-ouvert 2

Il y en a pour tout les prix et toutes les qualités. Les « meilleurs roulements » sont les SKF, leader mondial du roulement.

La nomenclature des roulements est toujours identique quelque soit la marque

  • leschiffres indiquent les dimensions
  • si rien n’est indiqué après leschiffres cela indique que les roulements sont à l’air libre
  • ZZ: le roulement possède des caches anti-poussières
  • RS: le roulement est étanche
  • C3: roulement haute vitesse

Les roulements à billes sont faits pour des vitesses moyennes de 1000 à 20000 tours/minute selon les modèles.

Les roulements à billes seront plus efficaces que les bagues autolubrifiées jusqu’à la limite de charge d’utilisation. Au dessus de la CMU les billes auront tendance à se déformer. Le principe du roulement est de réduire les frottements en réduisant le point de contact grâce aux billes (au lieu de quelque cm², on réduit la zone à quelque mm²).

Par contre une zone réduite de quelque mm² subit toute la charge et aura une limite avant déformation atteinte plus rapidement.

Les bagues auto-lubrifiées :

coussinet-lisse-cylindrique-revetement-ptfe 2

Réalisées en Bronze, cuivre, laiton, elles ont la propriété de ne pas adhérer (se gripper ) aux autres métaux (acier, alu).

Elles auront un rendement réduit par rapport aux roulements à billes, mais aux limites d’utilisation du roulement à billes les bagues permettront de monter beaucoup plus haut en charges.

Par exemple : les voitures sont sur rotule à billes, pour les camions la charge est trop importante et le système passe sur des bagues auto-lubrifiées car la charge serait trop élevée pour des billes, sauf à avoir des billes qui quadrupleraient de volume mais cela ne serait plus intéressant.

Quel est donc le rendement théorique des poulies utilisées en slackline ?

Les calculs suivant représentent une valeur théorique, dans la réalité les forces fournies varient et ne sont pas régulières dans le temps. Attention le total de la sommes des réa et bloqueur n’est valable qu’avec un renvoi. Sans renvoi le total doit être divisé par le rendement du bloqueur. Ne prenant aucune marque concurrente en référence nous nous baserons sur les rendements fournis par Petzl et Wichard. Attention toutes les marques n’ont pas la même qualité de rendement.

Matériel utilisé pour comparer :

Poulie petzl à roulements à billes servant de référence :

poulie minder réa de 51 mm rendement 97 %

poulie rescue réa de 38 mm rendement 95%

poulie prussik réa de 25 mm (axe de 10) rendement 91 %

Bloqueurs de corde servant de référence :

Protraxion petzl réa 38 mm (ou poulie minder avec machard) rendement 95 %

Micro traxion Petzl 28 mm (ou poulie rescue avec machard) rendement 91 %

Robot de Kong 35 mm rendement 69 %

Grigri 2 Petzl rendement 52 %

Plaquette Gigi 48 %

Pour les poulies quadruple, nous prenons l’exemple de 2 poulies doubles mises ensemble sur un multiplicateur d’ammarage, une perte supplémentaire de rendement s’ajoute à cause des frottements des cordes entre elles pour l’égalisation du système pour que les poulies restent droite.

calcul rendement poulie3 2

Pour nos ingénieurs qui veulent s’amuser à faire des calculs plus personnalisés, vous retrouverez ici la fiche pour calculer le rendement d’un poulie :

http://slack-mountain.com/shop/fr/content/12-rendement-poulie

Posted in News, Pro Tips | Tagged | Leave a comment

The Jan Galek interview !

Jan Galek is a slack Master: Longline, highline, solo, trad climbing, bouldering, expeditions, new terrain: he does it all. Jan is not the new kid on the scene but he is the guy who inspired slackliners for the past decade. He is one of the most accomplished slackliners and you can see him on great films where he is exploring vertical and horizontal limits on different locations around the world. Go talk to him if you meet him : he is an amazing person and he will motivates you to go out your comfort zone.

DSC_0159 (1)

Tell us who you are? 

My name is Jan Gałek. I am 26 years old (born in 1988). I consider myself slackliner and a climber 😉

Where are you from?

I am from Poland, Wrocław (2nd name – Breslau).

What do you love most about your hometown?

Damn, that’s a hard question as I spent here big chunk of my life, but I guess what I like the most is great location (not too far to Germany, Czech Republic and other great climbing/highline location in Poland) as well as great slackline and climbing community.

Since how long do you slack?

I am slacklining since summer of 2005 so it’s almost 10 years right now. Goddamn, I will have my first big jubilee soon. I guess I am becoming old and a slackline dinosaur …

DSC_0023a

How did you enter into Balance Community?

I’ve been working with quite few slackline companies as my slackline interests evolved and I finally stuck with BC for a few reasons. First of all I really like Jerry, his a friend, great slacker – I think inspiration to the whole community and I just wanted to cooperate with slackline company in which I fully believe. What I mean by that is that I truly believe it’s the best gear, really good company philosophy and I can truly recommend it to friends not because I get paid, only because … it’s true!

The longest line you ever walked: highline and longline?

The longest longline so far was 232m OS-FM on polyester webbing “Octopussy” from a friend in PL and highline “Master of Universe” 96.5m in my favorite place Ostrov in CZ.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

What did you do last Sunday?

I did some bouldering with my best friend in Ostbloc, Berlin.

If you could change one thing about yourself, what would it be?

I would like to be more organized human being.

A phrase you say often is:

No pain no gain!

DSC_0776

A common misconception about your self is:

Well, I don’t know if you’re talking about others misconception about me, or my misconception about myself so I will answer to both. I think people generally think at first I am hardcore and hard to approach but if you get to know me/talk to me it is totally not the reality and I am just silly and goofy slacker. I guess my biggest misconception is usually I think small of myself – not trying to say I am super cool in reality, just I am lacking some self confidence so when I surprise myself and send hard something I totally didn’t expect it is really good feeling.

Your biggest fear is:

Not being able to move at all.

Your biggest worry is:

As for now, sadly just normal life; trying to get healthy after my accident and earn enough ‘dolla, dolla bills yo!’ so I can live and go on the next slackline and climbing adventure.

Your biggest weakness is:

I think it is impossible to explain urge to train everyday – have to force myself to rest.

A Guilty pleasure of yours is:

Definitely ice cream, any kind – I will eat it!

DSC_0717

An excuse you use often is :

Not enough time? I don’t know you can use whatever you want – excuse is always trying to cheat your self 😉

Something you could use more of in life is:

Lazy day activities …

DSC_9809

Something in your refrigerator?

Actually way too much … I love food.

What country would you most like to visit?

I would like to drive across whole Southern America and finish in Patagonia for some time …

What webbing do you usually use?

Aero or Mantra MKIII

DSC_0017

Your favorite possession is:

My range finder …

Your first thoughts upon waking up are?

Let’s have a productive day!

DSC_0057

What passion did you have before slacklining?

Well, I had quite a few. I finished music school on a classic guitar and since I was a kid I played quite a few instruments. From more active passions – cross-country running and MTB biking.

The last line you walked was:

Longline on Aero webbing in a park …

The song you usually listen when you slack?

Jesus, that’s a super hard question. I am a music freak so I listen to a lot of different stuff. For slacklining I usually prefer something electronic, which takes my mind off unnecessary thoughts. Some dark, melodic dubstep or ambient electronics do the trick

The last meal you ate was:

I had some scrambled eggs with some veggies and avocado.

The last text message you sent was:

‘Gonna a bit late for training buddy’

The best advice you’ve ever received was:

Focus on one thing at once.

DSC_0039 (2)

The best word to describe your life is?

Unpredictable.

What quality do you admire most in other people?

Being persistent in being a generally good and conscious human being

DSC_9945

One mistake you’ve done rigging a line?

There was way too many, starting from all time classic – ‘oh shit, I forgot to put the rings on!’, but I guess ripping what I thought to be a solid tree out of the ground and dragging it with the 160m line few meters on the ground in front of people chilling in a park during sunny Sunday. The funniest thing was no one said anything to me. I felt so dumb …

Highline should be completely free or there should be rules?

I think it should stay free in terms of where a person wants to take it and which direction evolve with it. On the other hand I think it would be good to put some rules for rigging and safety because that can and eventually will safe some lives, as the sport grows bigger. I think it wouldn’t be stupid also to discuss some rules and standards for world record sends, but that’s it.

You think solo is:

That’s an interesting topic. Personally I am really interested in free soloing and people associate me mainly with that activity, which I am not sad about but I am all-round slackliner and have accomplishments on different grounds too. But that’s how it goes and I am fine with it. I like to share it with people because the videos of Dean Potter free soloing classic L.A.S. highline and then Andy Lewis repeating this line really inspired me and showed me anything is possible; especially since I have witnessed Andy’s first ascent of this line back in 2007 and it was most shaky yet impressive walk I’ve seen 😉 I want to inspire people to so that’s why I think sharing pics or videos is ok as long as you show the amount of preparation and don’t say openly go free solo to anyone. If someone chooses to because of me, I am fine with it – it’s always serious and conscious decision. I don’t believe beginner or especially someone new to slacklininig would go free solo because of the video – I mean if you think of the feeling sitting on your first highline and not wanting to stand up in a harness and then add up to the equation no safety – no f’in way 😉

41224237

Where did you travel during 2014 and what you are your best slackline memories?

Well, 2014 was pretty grim for me. I had a climbing accident just at the end of 2013 in which I had an open, multifracture, rotational break of my lower right leg (both tibia and fibula where broken). It was a quite a recovery process and it wasn’t pretty but I feel I learned a lot and what doesn’t kill you make you stronger. I think walking my first highline after almost one year since the accident was the most beautiful moment I had for a while. It was beautiful and I almost cried 😉

What goals would you like to achieve this year?

There is way too many and I have to choose wisely as I had to hold my needs because of my accident. Main goal is obviously to get healthy, I will have last surgery in one month, which will be removing all the metal stuff from my leg and then I can start thinking about all the goals I set for myself. All I can say is I will definitely do some epic stuff with Somewhereelseland Team and go big on Yosemite Walls this time not only highlining but climbing. I would love to get back to skydiving too as soon as my leg is back to its full strength.

Last word ?

SlackOn !

The trailer of High over Todra : a great highline film starring Jan !

Posted in Interviews, News | Tagged | Leave a comment

For the beauty of images

We really enjoyed that video when we watched it and each time we watch it again, we are inspired and motived to go highlining in nature.  It never gets old !

Posted in News, Videos | Tagged | Leave a comment

Back in 2007

What about a jump in the past ? At a time where the only lockers available were linelocks and line grips were machard !

The longline world record in 2007 was 123m !! 123m “only ? “.  Well done to the team and the effort. It was hard to get this record done at that time since the equipment was not the most adapted for such effort .

Posted in News, Records, Videos | Tagged , | Leave a comment

How to braid a splice

0

The goal of this tutorial is get this splice. The method we will show you is one of the easiest ways to splice Polyester Braid on Braid. The advantage of this splice is that it only reduces the breaking load by approximately 10%, whereas a bowline can reduces the breaking load by up to 40%! Be careful because this method should not be used on dyneema.

You’ll need a rope, 3 colored pen, a sharp knife, tape, selma fid.

Let’s start:

Tie a loop in the rope approx. two meters away from the end. Choose a Selma fid with a diameter approx. a half or two thirds the diameter of the rope. Mark the rope one fid length from the end with first colored pen.

1

Make a loop to the size of eye you require, and mark again with the same colored pen. Cut the heat sealed end off with the shape knife, and wrap a piece of electrical tape around the end (not shown in this picture). At second mark, pick the cover aside using the smallest Selma fid, and extract the core at this point.

 2

Wrap electrical tape around the end of the core to stop it un-ravelling. Milk the cover from the knot to the end, so that both core and cover are the same length. Then where the core exits the cover, mark this point with the second colored pen.

3

Pull out some more core, and with the third and final color pen mark the core one fid’s length from the mark you’ve just made with the second color pen.

4

Pull out even more core, and again with the third colored pen mark the core 2/3 of a fid’s length from the mark you’ve just made with the same pen.

5

Pull out even more core about another foot if you can, and insert the first of your sailmaker’s needles through the core to stop it creeping back into the cover.

6

Place the end of the cover into the selected Selma fid and insert into the core at the second mark you made on the core and out at the third mark you made on the core (both with the last pen).

7

Remove Selma fid. Gently work the cover slowly back into the core and secure with the second sailmaker’s needle so as not to pull the cover back out again by accident.

8

Place the core into the Selma fid and insert the fid into the cover very close to where the cover entered the core. Make sure there is no slack in the core between the 2nd sailmaker’s needle and the point where you are just about to insert the Selma fid.

9

Feed the Selma fid down inside the cover and out about an inch past the point where the first sailmaker’s needle is positioned. In this 1 inch length be careful not to accidentally catch the core with the Selma fid. To check this just pull the core slightly. If it moves it’s not caught. If it doesn’t move ease the Selma fid back a little and try again. Pull the Selma fid right out of the cover at this point bringing the core with it.

10

Remove the Selma fid and gently pull the remaining core through the cover until everything is tight at the ‘crossover’. Then remove both sailmaker’s needles.

11

Place the loop that you tied at the beginning over or around some strong point. Place your finger or fingers in the eye and pull towards you, and at the same time milk the slack in the cover towards the eye. The splice will disappear into the cover. If you are going to insert a thimble into the eye then do it just before you finally bed the eye in.

12

Cut off the exposed core and stretch the eye until the core goes under the cover.

13

If your final splice looks like this, then good job !

14

Go get your Selma fid now on the Balance Community website :

http://www.balancecommunity.com/selma-fid

 

Posted in News, Pro Tips | Leave a comment

Jerry Miszewski the myth, the legend and the geek

jerry

It’s been well established that Jerry Miszewski wrote the book on how to beat longline record that will slap you in the face like an ice bucket challenge the first time you see or read it. He influenced an entire generation of slackers, giving them the inspiration to push the slack game to the next level. He also created slack science helping the slack products to be adapted to our sport.

But Jerry is a simple man and he knows where he is coming from. He was enjoying video games but he discovered the pleasure of real life. He represents the spirit of our balance community.

Posted in News, Videos | Leave a comment